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Moving to Luton?

For most Brits, Luton is the gateway to more exotic climes. In fact, the majority of visitors don’t even make it into the town itself, heading straight for the airport – or possible the industrial estates nearby. It’s a shame; anyone who bothers to linger for a while will discover that there’s more to this place than an old Vauxhall plant…

The oldest traces of human inhabitancy in and around Luton date back around 250,000 years to the Paleolithic era. After the end of the Ice Age, people started to build settlements in the area again, but it was not until the 6th century that the Saxons established a trading outpost on the River Lea, known as Lea Ton or Loitone. This was the forerunner of the modern town. Nestled in the fertile Chiltern Hills, near enough to London to make transportation easy, it quickly became a regional centre of agriculture. Work on St Mary’s Church was begun by Robert, First Earl of Gloucester in 1121; this was quickly followed by a motte and bailey castle in 1139. Sadly, the castle was pulled down just fifteen years later and it is now the site of a Matalan store.

Typically of its always avant garde nature, in the sixteenth century the town’s focus moved from farming to brick making. The seventeenth century saw the rise of the hat making industry that would establish Luton’s fortunes in the modern world – although much reduced because of changes in fashions, the hat makers still work there to this day. The nineteenth century brought a rash of modern inventions, from the railway to gas street lighting, and the turn of the twentieth century saw the opening of the largest car factory in the UK. The Vauxhall plant continued to dominate the town’s fortunes until 2002, when it was closed: the company’s headquarters are still there. Today, Luton is undergoing dedicated regeneration: one of the new supercasinos is in its future along with many other innovations.

With a temperate climate – winter lows rarely go below 0°C and the temperature reaches around 21°C in summer, while rainfall is pretty constant year round – there is no right or wrong time to visit Luton. The major attraction is St Mary’s Church, a stunning building with a black and white chequered exterior and wonderful stained glass. Outside the town centre, Stockwood Park has magnificent formal gardens, including a Medieval herb garden, an Elizabethan garden laid out in knots, a Dutch garden and an Italian garden. Also within the grounds are the Mossman Collection of horse drawn vehicles (with examples from Roman times up to the 1930s) and the Stockwood Craft Museum. Wardown Park Museum focuses on traditional Bedfordshire crafts including lace making and hat making and the park itself is known for its daisy chain wall, a unique design feature.

People looking for more up to date attractions might enjoy the Arndale Centre, Europe’s first shopping mall, which is home to a traditional market as well as the usual high street stores. Luton Town Football Club, known as the Hatters, is wildly popular and a great place to get the feel of provincial British football. Then of course, there’s Luton Carnival, the biggest one-day street carnival in Europe. Held every May on the second bank holiday, it attracts over 150,000 visitors, all keen to party away Luton’s dull image.