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Moving to Bulgaria?
Bulgaria’s lawless reputation is undeserved these days, but there was a time when
the Bulgars terrorised Central and Eastern Europe. The first Bulgarian Empire was
established in 681 when Khan Aspurah established the first capital city, Pliska,
south of the Danube River. The Empire continued to expand until by the late ninth
century Emperor Simeon had taken over most of the Balkans, bringing Christianity
to the region as he did so. In the tenth century Bulgaria fell to the Byzantines
but in 1185 the Asen dynasty established the second Empire with a new capital at
Veliko Tarnovo. Their rule flourished for two centuries until the Ottomans marched
in. For the five hundred years of Ottoman dominance, Bulgarians never stopped struggling
for independence; by the beginning of the nineteenth century the Balkans had descended
into anarchy.
The April uprising on 1876 was viciously crushed by the Ottomans but prompted the
Great Powers to delineate two autonomous Bulgarian provinces. Following independence
in 1885, the country became increasingly militarised, although its unfortunate habit
of picking the losing side in wars led to the loss of a lot of territory. The communists
toppled the monarchy in 1943 with mixed results: on the one hand the standard of
living was considerably raised and the arts were protected; but the purging of around
30,000 ethnic Turks remains a black spot in Bulgarian history. The Communists stepped
down in 1989, paving the way for democratic elections.
There are still relatively few visitors to Bulgaria, but the country’s wild beauty
and fascinating history mean that will change soon. Compared with neighbouring capitals,
Sofia is somewhat drab but its faded glories hide some wonderful Roman ruins, the
stunning Aleksandar Nevsky Cathedral and a fine street life, with lush public gardens
and excellent cafes. The ruins at Pliska are very well preserved, especially the
many-pillared Great Basilica. Plovdiv is very atmospheric, the cobbled streets of
the old town packed with house museums and art galleries. The Roman amphitheatre
here is wonderful. The sixteenth-century village of Koprivshtitsa nestles in wooded
hills, a perfectly – and deliberately – preserved hamlet filled with Bulgarian National
Revival–period architecture, cobblestone streets, and bridges that arc gently over
a lovely brook.
On the Black Sea Coast, Nesebar is a lovely resort that manages to combine medieval
churches with every water sport imaginable. Deep in the Rila Mountains, Rila Monastery
has been an important place of pilgrimage since the 10th century and more recently
a magnet for tourists, lured by its magnificent frescoes and sacred relics. The
mountains are also home to bears, lynxes and rare birds – hiking is spectacular
but be careful! Closer to Sofia, Bansko has become the country’s premier ski destination
and the authorities are constantly bulldozing new trails.
Food is very important in Bulgaria and the country is renowned for its rich salads,
yogurt soups, stuffed cabbages and smoked sausage. Drop Sarma, a dish of lamb lungs
with rice, is only for the adventurous. Bulgarian wine is becoming very popular
in western Europe, or the local fire water is rakia, a fruit brandy that is usually
home brewed.
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