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Moving to Holland?
At first sight Holland seems to be one of the most aptly named countries: the word
derives from the Middle Dutch term holtland, which means “wooded land”. In fact,
much of it is artificially created, reclaimed from the blue-black waters of the
North Sea. Although today it is famous for its flatness, windmills, tulips and liberal
attitudes, the country was originally known for its massive trading empire and the
brilliant business skills of its people. Formed in 1581 when seven provinces broke
away from Philip II’s Spanish Empire, the Dutch Republic was initially quite disparate,
each province adopting its own laws with a central government at the Hague. During
the seventeenth century it grew to be one of the major seafaring powers, establishing
colonies and trading posts all over the globe. Amsterdam was the wealthiest city
in the world and the first stock exchange was established there. This coincided
with the Dutch Golden Age of art and literature. In the nineteenth century, Holland
fell behind – the canal-based infrastructure was difficult to industrialise – but
since the Second World War it has again caught up with and surpassed its neighbours.
Today it is one of the world’s most developed countries with one of the highest
standards of living.
Holland has a maritime climate, with cool summers and mild winters. Over half of
the country is below sea-level: this is the reason for all the windmills, which
were introduced in the thirteenth century to pump water out of those areas. Today,
the Delta Project and Expo in Zeeland exhibits the best techniques for avoiding
disasters on the scale of Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans.
Amsterdam is a rite of passage for European youth keen to experience the famous
“coffee shops” and gawp at the oddities in the red light district. Needless to say,
this gracious city has a great deal more than that to offer. A web of canals, or
Grachtengordel, determine its layout: a lazy boat trip is the best way to view the
olive-green waterways and dinky humpback bridges overlooked by street upon street
of handsome seventeenth-century canal houses. The Anne Frank House, where a family
of Jews hid from the Nazis in the Second World War, is a poignant reminder of the
Holocaust. Art lovers will adore the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum, an extravagant
collection of Dutch art and sculpture.
Outdoor enthusiasts will love cycling in the windswept Frisian Islands, whose windswept
dunes form a unique ecological habitat. The truly adventurous can get there via
a guided “mud-walk”. Zeeland is also wonderful for cycling; the wide green landscape
feels like a Monet painting, where every prospect pleases, while the gabled villages
are as pristinely pretty as you could wish. Breda is especially lovely – don’t miss
the Gothic cathedral. De Wiersse Castle has stunning gardens, designed over a century
ago. City lovers should head to Maastricht, a lively town that combines a superb
old quarter with brilliant contemporary architecture and excellent cuisine. The
famous tulips are best seen at Keukenhofgardens in Leiden; several million flowers
are showcased here in what used to be a countess’s kitchen garden.
The Dutch are renowned for their cheeses, the most famous of which are Gouda and
Edam. Cabbage based vegetable stews and sausages are very popular, as are thick
pea soup and meatballs. Like their neighbours the Belgians, the Dutch are very proud
of their mussels and chips. The other great cuisine is Indonesia – this is the best
place in the world outside Indonesia to try it. Whatever you eat, you’ll almost
certainly be drinking beer.