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Moving to Australia?

For all its laid-back reputation as a beach bum’s paradise, Australia is a very mysterious country. Long before it was discovered by Europeans, rumours of an unknown southern landmass, known as “terra australis incognita”, abounded. For 40,000 years before the Dutch arrived in the seventeenth century, the land was inhabited by indigenous tribes who were descended from the Polynesians: as yet, no one has been able to explain how they crossed the Torres Strait, or why they should have abandoned their seafaring skills when they arrived. The Aborigines were divided into 250 peaceful nations who lived according to the laws of Dreamtime, a vast system of spiritual beliefs told through songs, which are also used to map the country.

When Great Britain annexed Australia in the eighteenth century, it was used initially as a penal colony. Petty thieves, trespassers and even supporters of Irish independence were transported across the world, with the intention of reducing overcrowding in England whilst providing cheap labour. In 1835, the British passed a law stating that the land had been “terra nullius” prior to colonisation: the intention was to criminalise anyone occupying land without government permission but a crucial side effect was that Aborigines were classified as sub-human, and the white population were allowed to kill them without punishment. By 1868 the transportation of convicts had been phased out, as it was no longer necessary: the 1850s Gold Rush had brought huge numbers of adventurers desperate to make their fortunes. After supplying large numbers of troops to help the Allied effort in the First World War, Australia was granted Independent Sovereign Country status in 1919, although it is still technically ruled by the British monarchy. Today, Australia is rated among the top five countries to live.

The only country that is also a continent, Australia has a unique ecosystem: eighty percent of the flora and fauna species only exist here. Among the best known are koalas, emus, dingos and some of the most venomous insects and snakes in the world. Most of the country is semi-arid or desert, an unforgiving landscape that only the Aborigines can live in successfully with searing temperatures of up to 40º and very little rain. The temperate coastal regions have mild winters and warm summers; in Queensland the climate is almost tropical, with long monsoons.

Many tourists come to see nature at its most weird and wonderful. The Great Barrier Reef is the largest living entity in the world, home to a spectacular array of tropical fish, coral and plants. The Bungle Bungles in Western Australia are an extraordinary series of orange and white beehive shaped sandstone formations, which look more Martian than earthly. The red, red outback has become iconic, a land of huge skies and endless horizons, where kangaroos bound through unforgettable sunsets. In the very centre of the country, Uluru (or Ayer’s Rock, as it used to be known) is the most sacred Aboriginal site, an outsized red rock that can be seen from space. For a more gentle experience, the Blue Mountains near Sydney offer wonderful hiking through eucalyptus groves.

Sydney may not be the capital but it’s the most visited town in Australia, emblematic of modern life there. The Opera House dominates the harbour with its high white roofs that are reminiscent of sails, while the Sydney Harbour Bridge offers fabulous views. The foolhardy can climb it. Brash Bondi Beach is a mecca for surfers – no trip to Oz is complete without a barbeque on the sands there. Melbourne, by contrast, is the home of the thriving cultural scene, leading literary life and hosting the Melbourne International Arts Festival every October. Wide parks and a café culture make this a perfect spot for Europeans.