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Moving to China?
The world’s oldest continuous civilisation, which then tried to destroy itself in
the Cultural Revolution, China is unfathomable to outsiders. Although it was inhabited
by humanoids 500,000 years ago, the first known agriculture began about ten thousand
years ago. Cliff carvings dating to around 6000 BC show 8,453 individual characters
including sun, moon, gods and scenes of hunting and grazing. In 2205 BC, the Xia
Dynasty united to stop the Yellow River flooding. Successive dynasties expanded
their territory and created complicated pantheons of deities. In the eighth century
BC, the Confucian and Taoist philosophies were founded; these were refined over
the next two millennia as first the Qin and later the Ming conquered farther lands
and cemented their power.
The Manchu invasion in the sixteenth century brought abrupt change: the new emperors
introduced mandatory head shaving and literary inquisition, and instituted new codes
for warriors. Opium was to prove their downfall: imperial edicts condemning the
use of the addictive drug clashed with the British desire to continue the trade.
The first Opium War was followed by a series of bloody rebellions, in which millions
of people died. The empire collapsed at the beginning of the twentieth century,
succeeded by the Republic of China. This was always deeply divided and a strong
Communist Party started to emerge in opposition. The Japanese invasion of Manchuria
in 1931 sent the communists into hiding. After the Second World War, in 1949, the
communists took over under Mao Zse-Tung, who became Chairman of the new People’s
Republic of China. The PRC began a series of ambitious social programmes; the resulting
famines caused an estimated 36 million deaths. The Cultural Revolution begun in
1966 encompassed the systematic destruction of artworks, literature, buildings and
negative thoughts. After Mao’s death the country started to liberalise, although
the Tiananmen Square massacre of 1989 is testament to the leadership’s dislike of
opposition. In recent years the economy has opened up and capitalism is eagerly
embraced; nonetheless there are still strict controls on information and the human
rights record is universally condemned.
Spanning nearly a continent, China ranges from the freezing Mongolian steppes in
the north via the Gobi Desert to the alluvial plains of the Yellow River and the
near tropical heat of the south. Any trip to the country, however, should start
with Beijing, a vast conurbation that is growing so quickly that locals get lost
trying to find their homes. The Forbidden City is the vast palace built by the Ming
Emperors according to geomantic theories, encompassing ceremonial halls, the Palace
of Heavenly Purity (otherwise known as the Emperor’s bedroom), a series of smaller
palaces that now serve as museums and the Imperial Garden. There’s even a Starbucks!
Just outside, Tiananmen Square is home to Chairman Mao’s marble memorial hall and
the Museum of the Chinese Revolution. East of the city centre, the 798 Art District
is the place to see modern Chinese art at its most dynamic. For those who don’t
wish to travel too far, the Great Wall of China does pass near the city: this would
also be a good place to start walking along the Wall.
Northeast of the capital, Chengde was the emperor’s summer retreat and spectacular
examples of imperial architecture are found on the outskirts. In Sichuan province,
Dafo, the world’s largest carved Buddha, gazes out over the sandstone cliffs of
Leshan. Travelling by boat along the Yangtzi River is the best way to see the province’s
staggering scenery. And don’t miss the teahouses in the area, where the garrulous
locals chat and play mahjong throughout the day. Sichuanese hotpot is a searingly
chillied stock into which meat and vegetables are dipped. The Yellow River has been
at the heart of Chinese culture for centuries. In Xian, the Terracotta Army is a
collection of over two thousand lifesize terracotta warriors that were set to guard
the tomb of Qin Shi Huang over two thousand years ago. In the city itself, two Tan-dynasty
pagodas and the Ming city walls merit a visit. Further along the river, the Confucius
Temple is one of China’s three great architectural complexes.