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Moving to Dubai?
Notorious for its outrageous displays of wealth and the insalubrious conditions
in which its foreign labourers build its iconic landmarks, Dubai is bigger, brasher
and bolder than any other Arab city. Very little is known about its pre-Islamic
settlement, although remains of ancient trading posts have been found in and around
the municipality and the earliest-recorded mention of it dates to 1095. In the fifteenth
century it was known to Venetian traders as a pearling centre – a reputation which
it kept until the 1930s when the industry was damaged irreparably by the Great Depression
– but the town was not documented until 1799 when the Bani Yas clan established
a fort there.
The Al Maktoum dynasty took over Dubai in 1833 and the city came under the protection
of the British in 1892. Despite the great fire of 1894, which saw the destruction
of most of the buildings in the city, traders continued to come to Dubai, attracted
by its prime position on the Persian Gulf. Abu Dhabi has long been a rival – skirmishes
and border disputes continued even after the inception of the United Arab Emirates
in 1971 until a formal compromise was agreed in 1979. Conflict in the Middle East
brought refugees from around the region to the city, many of whom were very wealthy;
the relative stability meant that this became a centre of investment, which in turn
led to the ostentation that is now infamous.
Situated in the Arabian Desert, Dubai has a hot arid climate, with minimal rainfall
and average temperatures ranging from 24º to 42º. The landscapes around the city
are generally ignored in favour of the luxury within, but those who venture out
will find shifting white sands made of crushed shell and coral, giving way to the
iron oxide-tinged Western Hajar Mountains to the east and a vast sea of sand dunes
to the south. Hyenas, caracals, desert foxes, falcons and Arabian oryxes are all
spotted regularly. For a taste, albeit manufactured, of traditional life, head to
the Heritage Village, where local Emiratis take joy in their songs, dance and traditions,
or spend a few hours by the creek, watching the dhow (traditional wooden boat) traffic
and the abras weave along the waterway.
This is a city of extremes: the Barj Dubai is the tallest man-made structure in
the world; the Dubai Marina is the second largest in the world; the Burj Al ArabHotel
is the only 7 star hotel in the world, and the first hotel built in the sea with
three floors below the water level. It is even taking over the world of sport: the
International Cricket Council moved its headquarters from London to Dubai in 2005,
while the Dubai Desert Classic Golf Tournament attracts top players from around
the world. More typical, perhaps, is the Dubai World Cup, an annual race for thoroughbred
horses which exemplifies the lure of the place. Visitors come here not to bargain
for carpets in the traditional souks but to gaze on the follies of the superrich.
The credit crunch has taken its toll: The World, a series of manmade islands shaped
like a map of the earth and designed to be inhabited by celebrities, remains uninhabited
and all works have stopped. Nonetheless, as long as there is rampant consumerism,
Dubai will flourish, confident in its glitzy allure.
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