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Moving to India?
Stretching from the frozen peaks of the Himalayas in the north to the lush tropical
coasts of Kerala in the south, India encompasses an unbelievable variety of people,
landscapes and culture. The oldest known settlements were established over nine
thousand years ago; from around 1500 BC the Vedic Civilisation, in the central west
of the country, laid the foundations of Hinduism and established the caste system
that continues to this day. Countless empires rose and collapsed over the succeeding
millennia, the most famous being the Maurya Empire, which was established around
300 and saw the ancient Indian Golden Age, and the much later Mughal Empire, an
Islamic dynasty that began in 1530 and held control over all but the very south
of the subcontinent until the late seventeenth century, when the Peshwas created
the last Hindu empire. This broke down into smaller kingdoms in the eighteen century.
By 1856 the British East India Company controlled almost all of India. An attempted
mutiny by an alliance of Rajas a year later led to direct rule by the British Crown.
The independence movement began in the 1920s, led by Mohandas Gandhi, whose policy
of peaceful resistance included a refusal to wear British-produced textiles and
a march to the sea to make salt in defiance of the British monopoly. He eventually
brought independence to the country in 1947, dying a year later. Problems between
Hindus and Muslims had been intensifying during this period and the partition of
the sub-continent into India and Pakistan only exacerbated it. After prolonged and
violent rioting, which spread from Punjab and Bengal to other regions and left over
500,000 people dead, a mass migration of Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims saw 12 million
people move between the two newly created states. Kashmir, in the far north, is
still disputed territory and skirmishes continue to break out. Today, India has
one of the fastest growing economies in the world but 45% of people live below the
poverty line.
From the spiritual heights of Varanasi, the sacred Hindu City of Light that was
established by the Ganges in the sixth century and is still one of the holiest pilgrim
sites, to the brash glitz of Bollywood in Bombay, there is an infinite choice of
places to visit. Indian cities are unlike any other, jammed full of businessmen,
beggars, bullock carts and even the occasional elephant. The sacred cows wander
where they choose – it is not uncommon to get stuck in traffic on the busiest highway
because a cow is having its morning snack! Delhi is the city of the Moghuls, packed
with stunning Islamic buildings – the Red Fort and Jama Masjid are the most famous.
Many people aren’t aware that there are deserts in India – the arid Thar is home
to Jaisalmer, the Golden City, whose yellow ramparts rise above the sand like a
vision from the Arabian Nights. You can also go camel trekking under the starry
desert skies. Jodhpur's Meherangarh Fort is a spectacular reminder of the glories
of Rajputana, with gates designed to withstand armies invading on elephants, spoils
of war including a 250-year-old silk tent seized in a raid on Delhi, and fantastical
latticework covering its sandstone walls. Tiger spotters will find their prey in
Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh, which is also home to a wide array
of birdlife, deer, leopards, and a fascinating collection of ruins and cave paintings
dating to the first century BC. The most iconic Indian landmark is, of course, the
Taj Mahal in Agra. The great white palace was built by Shah Jahan in memory of his
third wife Mumtaz Mahal. Obsessed by his love for her, he spent all his energies
on the creation of the monument, eventually losing control of his empire.
Indian food is often lumped under the term “curry” – this hardly does justice to
the cornucopia of flavours on offer. In the north, dairy products such as paneer,
tandoor dishes and goat are very popular. South Indian cuisine is often vegetarian
and characterised by the liberal use of coconut and curry leaves. East Indians use
complex, subtle spicing and save lots of space for pudding; while in the West, people
eat a lot of fish. The staple drink is tea, but Indians are very keen on beer too.
However, they prefer to drink water with their food.
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